Certification required
AOW
Egypt · reef · advanced
A group of tall coral towers standing off the south tip of the Sha'ab Sheer plateau, dived only on days flat enough to leave a boat with no shelter at all.
Shaab Hamdallah sits at the southernmost point of the wide shallow plateau that surrounds Sha'ab Sheer, the reef the British charts call Hyndman. It is roughly 80 to 90 minutes out from the Safaga bases, and the wreck of the Salem Express lies about 1.3 km to the north-west of it on the same plateau; some Safaga operators say the ferry clipped this reef before going down, which is consistent with the published account — she grounded on a reef while taking the captain's habitual shortcut inside Hyndman, and the wreck is recorded as lying on Hyndman reef — but is not something any source names outright. The name is usually glossed as 'God's gift'.
The dive is a set of tall ergs, coral towers standing on sand. The most detailed published description counts five of them rising from about 18 m and arranged like the five pips on a die: the central one is the smallest and the most heavily covered in soft coral, the southern one is steeply undercut and hung with gorgonians, and the largest, northern erg has a soft-coral-lined tunnel running through its middle, with a split erg to the west that you can swim the canyon of. More ergs continue to the south, but those five are described as more than a single dive's worth. Safaga operators describe the same site more simply as two big blocks ringed by coral heads with a channel between them where bannerfish always sit, so expect the layout to read differently depending on where the boat drops you. Maximum depth is 20 m either way, which makes this a shallow dive with a hard weather gate rather than a deep one.
What you look at is mostly the towers themselves and what lives on them. Around a hundred bluecheek butterflyfish hold station between the northern erg and the gorgonian erg, small pale greasy groupers live in the tunnel, and the tops of the ergs carry a lot of scorpionfish and false stonefish; the sand between them is named as one of the few places around Safaga where you meet spiny devilfish. Operators add schooling fish over the whole reef with Napoleon wrasse, turtles, tuna and barracuda, and eagle rays now and then. OBIS records around the pin are consistent: greasy grouper, redmouth grouper, titan triggerfish, yellowbar angelfish, lunar and Suez fusiliers, orangespotted trevally, tentacled flathead and porcupinefish.
Two things are worth knowing before you get in. The site is open sea with nothing to hide the boat behind, so it goes off the programme at the first sign of weather and one local centre rates it 5 out of 5 for difficulty on that basis alone. And the tunnel through the northern erg is not a swim-through: the guide that describes it says explicitly to look and not enter, because exhaled bubbles knock the soft coral off the roof. The same applies in the split-erg canyon, which has a large intact table coral in it.
AOW
Day boat from Safaga, about 80 minutes from the town bases and about 90 minutes quoted by the dive guides. There is no protected mooring area: the boat lies in open sea on the south edge of the Sha'ab Sheer plateau.
Access to the site runs through a local operator.
Standard Egyptian Red Sea diving permit fees apply per diving day out of Safaga — one local base's 2023 price list charges 5 euro per diving day on top of the dive price. The published dive plan for this site asks divers not to enter the soft-coral tunnel and to keep clear of the table coral in the split-erg canyon.
The gate here is wind, not season. Safaga water sits between about 22.5 degrees in February and March and 29 degrees in August on ten-year averages, so temperature never rules the site out; whether the boat can lie off an unsheltered reef 80 to 90 minutes from port does, and that is a day-by-day call rather than a month.
Open water over a sand seabed with towers standing off it, maximum depth 20 m. Conditions are binary rather than variable: on a calm day the boat sits over an unsheltered reef and the dive is easy at 20 m, and on any other day it does not run. Water is around 22.5 degrees in February and March and about 29 degrees in August on ten-year monthly averages for Safaga.
On current: Sources disagree and the safe reading is the pessimistic one. The most detailed guide says the current here runs from nothing at all to 'highly inconvenient' but never so strong you cannot dive it; two Safaga operators simply call it moderate to strong, and a third attributes the strength to how exposed the reef is. Plan it as a current dive on an unsheltered boat, because the failure mode here is being blown off an erg with nothing downstream to sit behind.
Shallow for an offshore Red Sea reef: maximum depth is 20 m, quoted the same way by a dive guide and by a Safaga operator. The coral towers that make up the site rise from a sand seabed at about 18 m, so a whole dive can be spent circling them well inside no-decompression limits. The difficulty here comes from the weather and current, not from the depth.
By day boat from Safaga. One local base gives about 80 minutes' running time from its jetty, and the dive guides quote roughly 90 minutes from town. The reef lies at the southern tip of the Sha'ab Sheer plateau, about 1.3 km south-east of the Salem Express wreck, and there is no sheltered mooring: the boat sits in open sea for the whole dive.
No. It is graded advanced by the guide that describes it in most detail and 5 out of 5 for difficulty by a Safaga operator, entirely because of exposure and current rather than depth. There is no protected water to drift into and no shelter for the boat, so a diver who is not comfortable finishing a dive in current on an open reef should take one of the inshore Tobia sites instead.
Often, and reports vary. One guide says it ranges from nothing at all to 'highly inconvenient' but is never too strong to dive; two Safaga operators call it moderate to strong, and a third puts the strength down to how exposed the reef is. Plan for the strong version, because the boat has nowhere to hide and there is no lee downstream.
The published description names about a hundred bluecheek butterflyfish holding between the northern erg and the gorgonian erg, small pale greasy groupers living in the tunnel, and a lot of scorpionfish and false stonefish on the tops of the towers; the sand between them is one of the few places around Safaga where spiny devilfish turn up. Operators add schooling fish across the reef, Napoleon wrasse, turtles, tuna, barracuda and occasional eagle rays, and bannerfish that sit permanently in the channel between the two main blocks. OBIS records for the pin also list titan triggerfish, yellowbar angelfish, lunar and Suez fusiliers, orangespotted trevally, tentacled flathead and porcupinefish.
You are asked not to. The largest, northern erg has a tunnel running through its middle whose walls are lined with soft coral, and the published dive plan says to look but not enter, because even exhaled bubbles dislodge the corals growing inside. The same care applies in the canyon of the split erg to the west, where there is a large intact table coral at fin height.
Any month the sea is flat. Water temperature is never the limit here, running from about 22.5 degrees in February and March to about 29 degrees in August on ten-year Safaga averages. What decides it is wind on the day: the reef offers a boat no protection at all, so the trip is booked and then cancelled on the morning rather than planned by season.
At least one Safaga operator says so, and the geography allows it: the ferry grounded while taking her captain's usual shortcut inside Hyndman Reef, which is the same plateau Shaab Hamdallah stands at the southern tip of, and the wreck lies about 1.3 km away. No source names the reef she hit outright, so treat this as a local attribution rather than an established fact. The wreck itself is a separate dive and, as a mass grave from December 1991, a separate decision.
| Species | How often | Records |
|---|---|---|
| Scarus ferrugineus | rare | 4 |
| Epinephelus tauvina | rare | 3 |
| Chromis pembae | rare | 2 |
| Siganus argenteus | rare | 2 |
| Caesio suevica | rare | 1 |
| Cheilodipterus macrodon | rare | 1 |
| Cheilodipterus quinquelineatus | rare | 1 |
| Corythoichthys flavofasciatus | rare | 1 |
| Dascyllus marginatus | rare | 1 |
| Dascyllus trimaculatus | rare | 1 |
| Diodon hystrix | rare | 1 |
| Acanthurus nigrofuscus | rare | 1 |
| Myripristis murdjan | rare | 1 |
| Ostracion cyanurus | rare | 1 |
| Papilloculiceps longiceps | rare | 1 |
| Parupeneus cyclostomus | rare | 1 |
| Pomacanthus maculosus | rare | 1 |
| Scarus niger | rare | 1 |
| Thalassoma rueppellii | rare | 1 |
| Zebrasoma desjardinii | rare | 1 |
| Aethaloperca rogaa | rare | 1 |
| Ctenochaetus striatus | rare | 1 |
| Mulloidichthys vanicolensis | rare | 1 |
| Flavocaranx bajad | rare | 1 |
| Amblyglyphidodon flavilatus | rare | 1 |
| Balistoides viridescens | rare | 1 |
| Caesio lunaris | rare | 1 |
A 1991 ferry disaster on Hyndman Reef. Hundreds of people are still inside her, and that is the whole of what this dive is.
The small round hard-coral reef detached to the south of Sha'ab Sheer, dived as the shallow second half of a Salem Express day.
A small outer reef south of Sha'ab Sheer with a ridge of fused ergs and shallow swim-throughs at 4 to 6 m.
The eastern end of Safaga's boomerang reef, where three ergs stand off the reef and leave a shallow channel that decides how the dive goes.
A 115 m ferry lying inverted against the wall of Sha'ab Sheer, still settling, dived one way from a zodiac drop.
The western dive on Sha'ab Sheer: in through a small channel to a hard-coral garden on the north side, then an inclined coral wall along the main reef, with sea fans below 20 m.
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