Elphinstone North

Egypt · reef · advanced

18–40 madvancedAOWboat entry
MEDIA11 items

Elphinstone North

A fin-shaped shelf hanging off the north tip of an offshore ridge, dived as a drift in permanent current with open ocean underneath.

reefwalldriftplateaupelagicsharkboatoffshore
Max depth18–40 m
Required leveladvanced
Entry typeboat
Visibility20 m

The dive

Elphinstone is a submerged ridge about 300 m long and 20-40 m wide lying roughly 10 km off the coast near Marsa Alam, with steep walls dropping on both sides into several hundred metres of open water. This entry is the northern plateau: a fin-shaped shelf, around 80 m long, that extends off the tip of the reef before the walls fall away. Published depths for the shelf vary with where you stand on it, from about 18-25 m at the shallow end down to 40 m or more where it steps off.

The dive is normally a drift. The reef sits at an angle to the prevailing flow, so current runs almost permanently over both plateaus, typically north to south at two knots or more, variable and capable of reversing. Boats drop divers up-current and pick them up in blue water. Access is by day boat from the Marsa Alam coast or by liveaboard out of Port Ghalib.

The plateau is covered in soft coral with gorgonian formations on the walls below, and it is the reef's main pelagic station: grey reef sharks, giant trevally, barracuda and tuna on the shelf, hammerhead schools reported in the early morning and in summer at depth, and oceanic whitetips present year round with an October-to-December peak. Note that the OBIS occurrence data behind this page covers the coastal bbox around the reef and returns ordinary reef fish rather than these pelagics; the shark and pelagic reporting comes from dive guides, not from the occurrence record.

The Sarcophagus arch is at the southern tip, not here, and sits at roughly 52-70 m. It is outside recreational limits, and the 'sarcophagus' is a square block of rock, not an artefact.

  • Fin-shaped northern plateau, roughly 80 m long, dropping into open ocean
  • Near-permanent current; run as a drift with a blue-water pickup
  • Oceanic whitetips year round, peaking October to December
  • Soft coral on the shelf, gorgonians on the walls below

Please note before you go

  • Strong, variable current that can reverse; open ocean downstream of the plateau, so a diver swept off the shelf has nothing to stop on
  • Down-currents reported along the east and west walls
  • Walls drop past 100 m immediately off the plateau edge; easy to exceed planned depth in blue water
  • Open-ocean site with no shelter: surface conditions can be rough and pickup is in blue water, so a delayed SMB is mandatory
  • Oceanic whitetip sharks are present year round and are inquisitive; bites on divers have been documented at this reef, including an incident in 2020
  • The Sarcophagus arch at the southern tip lies at about 52-70 m, beyond recreational limits; divers have died attempting it without appropriate training and gas. There is no arch on the northern plateau
  • Multiple fatalities have been recorded at this reef, including a 2007 incident involving four divers

Access & rules

Mandatory requirements

Certification required

AOW

Getting there

Boat only. Day boats and zodiacs run out from the Marsa Alam coast, roughly 17 bumpy minutes from Marsa Abu Dabab when the sea allows, and liveaboards come from Port Ghalib in about two hours. There is no shelter, no shore and no facilities. Boats moor on HEPCA's buoy system rather than anchoring, and moorings are contested here.

Operator

Access to the site runs through a local operator.

Restrictions

Operators require Advanced Open Water plus around 50 logged dives, with experience of deep, drift and rough-water diving. Trips are cancelled on sea state.

Season

Oceanic whitetips are present year round with a peak from October to December, which is also when the site is most deliberately targeted. Late summer and early autumn give the warmest water, up to 29 C in August, but August is when the reef is most crowded. Hammerhead schools are reported in the early morning and in summer, at depth.

Conditions

Visibility20 m
Currentstrong
Surgenot sourced
WaterSalt water
Depth range18–40 m
Environmentreef
Coralrecovering
Crowdscrowded

Almost always a drift. The ridge sits at an angle to the prevailing flow, so current runs over both plateaus more or less permanently, typically north to south at two knots or more, variable and capable of reversing, with down-currents reported along the east and west walls. Visibility is quoted at 20-35 m by one guide and averaging 20 m by another; the lower figure is what we record. Water runs about 22 C in March and 29 C in August. Surface conditions are open-ocean and often rough.

On current: Sources agree the current is near-constant over the northern plateau and runs mostly north to south at two knots or more, but it is variable and can reverse. Depth figures for the plateau disagree (18-25 m in some guides, 20-40 m in others, stepping to about 42 m); we record the conservative 18-40 m band. Visibility is quoted as 20-35 m by one guide and averaging 20 m by another; the lower figure is recorded. Water temperature is reported around 22 C in March and 29 C in August.

Best months: Oct, Nov, Dec

Dives at this site

1 shared by SeaLog divers

Questions & answers

How deep is the northern plateau at Elphinstone?

It depends where you stand on it. Guides put the shallow end at about 18-25 m and the step-off at 40 m or more, with one source describing the north section dropping to around 42 m. We record a conservative 18-40 m band. Off the plateau edge the walls fall past 100 m into several hundred metres of open water.

Is Elphinstone North suitable for beginners?

No. Operators ask for Advanced Open Water plus roughly 50 logged dives and prior experience of deep diving, drift diving and rough sea conditions. The combination of permanent strong current, a bottomless drop off the plateau edge and a blue-water pickup is not a place to build experience.

How strong is the current?

Strong and near-constant. The reef lies at an angle to the prevailing flow, so current runs over both plateaus almost permanently, usually north to south at two knots or greater. It is variable and can reverse, and down-currents are reported along the east and west walls. The dive is planned as a drift with an up-current drop and a blue-water pickup.

How do you get to Elphinstone?

By boat only, and only when the sea allows. It is about 17 minutes by zodiac from Marsa Abu Dabab on the Marsa Alam coast, or roughly two hours by liveaboard from Port Ghalib. There is no shelter at the reef; boats moor on HEPCA buoys and the moorings are contested when several vessels arrive at once.

Can you snorkel Elphinstone?

No. It is not offered as a snorkelling site. The reef is 10 km offshore with permanent two-knot current, open ocean directly below, zodiac traffic at the surface and oceanic whitetip sharks present year round. Everything about the logistics assumes a certified drift diver.

When is the best time to dive it for sharks?

October to December is the peak for oceanic whitetips, though they are present year round. Hammerhead schools are reported in the early morning and during summer, at depth. Late summer gives the warmest water, around 29 C in August against 22 C in March, but August is also when the reef is busiest.

What are the real hazards here?

Strong reversing current with open ocean downstream, so a diver swept off the shelf has nothing to stop on; down-currents along both walls; walls dropping past 100 m immediately off the plateau edge; and rough surface conditions with a blue-water pickup. Oceanic whitetips are inquisitive and bites on divers have been documented at this reef, including a 2020 incident. Multiple fatalities have been recorded here, including a 2007 incident involving four divers.

Where is the Sarcophagus arch?

At the southern tip of the reef, not on the northern plateau. It sits at roughly 52-70 m, well beyond recreational limits, and divers have died attempting it without appropriate training and gas. The 'sarcophagus' itself is a square block of rock; the pharaonic-tomb story is narcosis folklore.

Life recorded at Elphinstone North

60 species within 15 km · OBIS
Taeniura lymmacommon · 270 recordsBalistoides viridescenscommon · 162 recordsGymnothorax javanicuscommon · 149 records
Acanthurus sohalcommon · 307 records
Zebrasoma desjardiniicommon · 272 records
Chaetodon semilarvatuscommon · 237 records
All 60 species recorded in this area
SpeciesHow oftenRecords
Acanthurus sohalcommon307
Zebrasoma desjardiniicommon272
Taeniura lymmacommon270
Chaetodon semilarvatuscommon237
Pterois milescommon236
Thalassoma rueppelliicommon235
Chlorurus sordiduscommon232
Abudefduf vaigiensiscommon231
Pseudanthias squamipinniscommon229
Heniochus intermediuscommon214
Paracirrhites forstericommon213
Arothron diadematuscommon213
Cephalopholis miniatacommon205
Rhinecanthus assasicommon196
Pygoplites diacanthuscommon182
Naso eleganscommon178
Tridacna maximacommon165
Chaetodon fasciatuscommon165
Amphiprion bicinctuscommon162
Balistoides viridescenscommon162
Cephalopholis arguscommon155
Diodon hystrixcommon153
Scarus nigercommon153
Gymnothorax javanicuscommon149
Arothron hispiduscommon148
Naso unicorniscommon144
Chaetodon austriacuscommon143
Fistularia commersoniicommon143
Zebrasoma xanthurumcommon141
Chaetodon aurigacommon138
Myripristis murdjancommon135
Amblyglyphidodon indicuscommon133
Monotaxis grandoculiscommon133
Balistapus undulatuscommon125
Cheilinus lunulatuscommon122
Chaetodon paucifasciatuscommon118
Ctenochaetus striatuscommon111
Pomacentrus sulfureuscommon110
Halichoeres hortulanuscommon107
Coris aygulacommon106
Priacanthus hamrurcommon99
Dascyllus trimaculatuscommon99
Neoniphon sammaracommon98
Bodianus anthioidescommon94
Flavocaranx bajadcommon94
Scolopsis ghanamcommon92
Sargocentron caudimaculatumcommon88
Oxycheilinus digrammacommon88
Epibulus insidiatorcommon87
Parapercis hexophtalmacommon85
Pseudodax moluccanuscommon79
Pycnochromis dimidiatuscommon78
Scarus ferrugineuscommon77
Mulloidichthys vanicolensisoccasional75
Variola loutioccasional74
Chromis viridisoccasional73
Parupeneus forsskalioccasional72
Coenobita scaevolaoccasional71
Dascyllus abudafuroccasional70
Ostracion cubicumoccasional69

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