Certification required
AOW
Egypt · reef · advanced
The southern route around the one island called Big Brother: the plateau off its south tip, dived at dawn for threshers.
Big Brother is a single small island in the Brothers (El Akhawein), 60 to 70 km off El Quseir in open water, and "Big Brother South" is one of the routes boats run around it rather than a reef of its own. The same island is covered by our Big Brother, Big Brother East and Big Brother - Numidia entries; a liveaboard with a day here will normally dive two or three of them in sequence.
The south route is the plateau that runs off the island's southern tip. It is a ledge that starts shallow enough to be worked on air and then falls away hard on both sides into water far deeper than anything recreational. Sources do not agree on how deep it is: one operator's table gives 15 to 30 m, a published trip report from the island describes it as starting at 20 m and sloping to 40 m, and two guides put the thresher cleaning station at 30 to 40 m. Another operator describes a small promontory with three or four low underwater hills at about 35 m near the tip, which others place on the eastern shelf instead; the two routes meet there, which is probably why. Plan for the shallow figures and let the guide take you deeper if the briefing calls for it.
This is the sheltered side of the island. Current here usually runs lighter than on the exposed walls and tips, so it is where boats put the first dive of the day while a group settles in, and where they dive at all when the current is running above three knots and the north tip is off. It is also where the east and west wall drifts finish, because the set on those walls normally goes north to south.
What brings people is the thresher shark, which is reported over this plateau on dawn dives and more often in the colder months. The rest of the day it is schooling great barracuda circling the ledge, dogtooth tuna, grey reef sharks and humphead wrasse out in the blue, with coral hind, sea goldies, giant moray and black-and-white snapper on the reef itself. The island's supply jetty is on this side, and the shallow notches under it at 2 to 5 m hold heavy schools of small fish, which makes a useful safety stop. The Numidia and Aida wrecks are at the opposite end of the island and are not part of this dive.
AOW
Liveaboard only. Boats cross overnight from Hurghada, Port Ghalib or Marsa Alam to an island 60 to 70 km off El Quseir, moor on fixed lines rather than anchoring, and run the dives from zodiacs. You de-kit in the water to get back aboard.
Access to the site runs through a local operator.
Safari boats need a sailing permit for the Brothers, normally included in the trip price. HEPCA's March 2019 reopening notice caps the site at 12 boats a day at Big Brother and 6 at Small Brother and forbids overnight stays, so a visit is a single day. Night diving is prohibited. Operators require Advanced Open Water or equivalent and around 50 logged dives.
Declared marine protected area. Anchoring, dumping organic waste, feeding, fishing and spearfishing are prohibited; boats use fixed moorings. Permit and park charges are collected by the operator.
May to November is the honest overlap: the offshore marine parks are generally given an April-to-November season, one operator narrows the Brothers to May to September, and a guide runs May to December with October and November as the pick. The thresher sharks this plateau is known for are reported more in the colder months, and oceanic whitetips through the summer.
Open ocean with the island as the only shelter. Operators give visibility from 15 to 25 m at the low end and 19 to 30 m more usually; water runs roughly 21 to 24 degrees in winter and 26 to 30 in summer. Because this is the lee side it is the most reliably diveable part of the island, but swell wraps around the tip and spring brings the biggest seas.
On current: The south side is the lee. Operators grade the Brothers from 1 to 4 knots and describe the southern current as running south and usually lighter than the walls, which is why the south plateau is the fallback when it is blowing: above 3 knots the exposed north tip is cancelled and only this side is dived. That does not make it slack. One guide notes the current here often comes from the north, so finning back against it is hard work, and the standard drill above 2 knots is a negative entry, a tight group and an SMB on ascent. A first-hand trip report from this island logged one dive with no current at all and another running the opposite way, south to north.
Best months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov
No. Big Brother is one small island, and the south plateau is one of the routes boats run around it. It shares the reef with our Big Brother, Big Brother East and Big Brother - Numidia entries, and a liveaboard with a day here will dive several of them in a row.
Sources disagree, so plan shallow. One operator's table gives 15 to 30 m, a published trip report measured it starting at 20 m and sloping to 40 m, and two guides put the thresher cleaning station at 30 to 40 m. Off both edges the bottom falls away well past recreational limits, and the cap boats brief here is 40 m.
This plateau is the reason people try. Guides describe it as a cleaning station where thresher sharks come in, best on an early morning dive, and one operator reports them mostly in early autumn and winter. Nothing is guaranteed; the same dive routinely turns up grey reef sharks and barracuda instead.
Usually less than on the walls and tips, which is why boats use this side as the first dive of the day and as the only option when the current is over three knots. It is still open ocean: one guide warns the flow across the plateau often comes from the north and swimming back against it is hard, and above two knots the drill is a negative entry with an SMB on ascent.
No. Even as the gentlest route on the island it needs Advanced Open Water or equivalent and around 50 logged dives, which is what liveaboards on this itinerary ask for. You need to be comfortable with negative entries from a zodiac, a plateau edge that drops past recreational depth, and deploying an SMB in current.
Schooling great barracuda circling the ledge, dogtooth tuna, grey reef sharks and humphead wrasse in the blue, and coral hind, sea goldies, black-and-white snapper and giant moray on the reef. Threshers are the dawn animal and oceanic whitetips the summer one. The shallow notches by the island's supply jetty at 2 to 5 m hold dense schools of small fish.
Only on a liveaboard. The island lies 60 to 70 km off El Quseir and boats cross overnight from Hurghada, Port Ghalib or Marsa Alam. They moor on fixed lines instead of anchoring, and all diving runs from zodiacs, with divers taking their gear off in the water to climb back in.
The boat needs a sailing permit for the Brothers and the cost is normally in the trip price. Since HEPCA's March 2019 reopening notice the site is capped at 12 boats a day at Big Brother and no boat may stay overnight, so you get one day. Night diving is prohibited across the marine park.
| Species | How often | Records |
|---|---|---|
| Fistularia commersonii | occasional | 14 |
| Cephalopholis miniata | occasional | 14 |
| Cheilinus undulatus | occasional | 13 |
| Paracirrhites forsteri | occasional | 11 |
| Carcharhinus longimanus | occasional | 10 |
| Macolor niger | occasional | 9 |
| Heniochus intermedius | occasional | 9 |
| Balistoides viridescens | occasional | 8 |
| Caranx melampygus | occasional | 8 |
| Pseudanthias squamipinnis | occasional | 7 |
| Arothron diadematus | occasional | 7 |
| Caesio suevica | occasional | 7 |
| Scarus ferrugineus | occasional | 7 |
| Chaetodon semilarvatus | occasional | 7 |
| Pseudanthias taeniatus | occasional | 6 |
| Genicanthus caudovittatus | occasional | 6 |
| Zebrasoma desjardinii | occasional | 5 |
| Amphiprion bicinctus | occasional | 5 |
| Plectropomus marisrubri | occasional | 5 |
| Priacanthus hamrur | occasional | 5 |
| Pycnochromis dimidiatus | occasional | 5 |
| Sphyraena barracuda | occasional | 5 |
| Coris aygula | rare | 4 |
| Acanthurus gahhm | rare | 4 |
| Sargocentron spiniferum | rare | 4 |
| Gymnothorax javanicus | rare | 4 |
| Pygoplites diacanthus | rare | 4 |
| Pseudobalistes fuscus | rare | 4 |
| Dascyllus trimaculatus | rare | 4 |
| Thalassoma rueppellii | rare | 3 |
| Balistapus undulatus | rare | 3 |
| Cetoscarus bicolor | rare | 3 |
| Hexabranchus sanguineus | rare | 3 |
| Pterois miles | rare | 3 |
| Rhincodon typus | rare | 3 |
| Amblyglyphidodon indicus | rare | 3 |
| Naso elegans | rare | 3 |
| Monotaxis grandoculis | rare | 3 |
| Aluterus scriptus | rare | 3 |
| Myripristis murdjan | rare | 2 |
| Millepora dichotoma | rare | 2 |
| Chaetodon melannotus | rare | 2 |
| Ostracion cubicum | rare | 2 |
| Plagiotremus rhinorhynchos | rare | 2 |
| Rhinecanthus assasi | rare | 2 |
| Sargocentron caudimaculatum | rare | 2 |
| Scarus niger | rare | 2 |
| Tridacna maxima | rare | 2 |
| Variola louti | rare | 2 |
| Hipposcarus harid | rare | 2 |
| Acanthurus sohal | rare | 2 |
| Heniochus diphreutes | rare | 2 |
| Chaetodon fasciatus | rare | 2 |
| Epinephelus tauvina | rare | 2 |
| Lutjanus bohar | rare | 2 |
| Aethaloperca rogaa | rare | 2 |
| Papilloculiceps longiceps | rare | 2 |
| Kyphosus cinerascens | rare | 2 |
| Naucrates ductor | rare | 1 |
| Echeneis naucrates | rare | 1 |
The eastern route around the one island called Big Brother: a sheer wall dropped from a zodiac and drifted south onto the plateau.
The larger of two isolated pinnacles in the open Red Sea, ringed by walls, topped by a Victorian lighthouse and carrying two wrecks on its northern end.
The 1901 steamer Numidia, standing on the north point of Big Brother with her bow at 8 m and her hull running down the slope past recreational limits.
A 170 m rock in open ocean with walls falling past 700 m, a 40 m plateau off its northern tip, and current that routinely runs 3 to 4 knots.
A boat drift on the wall just north of El Quseir town: free descent, along the wall, out over the plateau to the drop-off.
A plateau at about 20 m off Ras El Quseir carrying one continuous field of anemones, which is why guides call it Nemo City.
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