Big Brother South

Egypt · reef · advanced

5–40 madvancedAOWliveaboard entry

Big Brother South

The southern route around the one island called Big Brother: the plateau off its south tip, dived at dawn for threshers.

reefdriftwallboat
Max depth5–40 m
Required leveladvanced
Entry typeliveaboard
Visibility20 m

The dive

Big Brother is a single small island in the Brothers (El Akhawein), 60 to 70 km off El Quseir in open water, and "Big Brother South" is one of the routes boats run around it rather than a reef of its own. The same island is covered by our Big Brother, Big Brother East and Big Brother - Numidia entries; a liveaboard with a day here will normally dive two or three of them in sequence.

The south route is the plateau that runs off the island's southern tip. It is a ledge that starts shallow enough to be worked on air and then falls away hard on both sides into water far deeper than anything recreational. Sources do not agree on how deep it is: one operator's table gives 15 to 30 m, a published trip report from the island describes it as starting at 20 m and sloping to 40 m, and two guides put the thresher cleaning station at 30 to 40 m. Another operator describes a small promontory with three or four low underwater hills at about 35 m near the tip, which others place on the eastern shelf instead; the two routes meet there, which is probably why. Plan for the shallow figures and let the guide take you deeper if the briefing calls for it.

This is the sheltered side of the island. Current here usually runs lighter than on the exposed walls and tips, so it is where boats put the first dive of the day while a group settles in, and where they dive at all when the current is running above three knots and the north tip is off. It is also where the east and west wall drifts finish, because the set on those walls normally goes north to south.

What brings people is the thresher shark, which is reported over this plateau on dawn dives and more often in the colder months. The rest of the day it is schooling great barracuda circling the ledge, dogtooth tuna, grey reef sharks and humphead wrasse out in the blue, with coral hind, sea goldies, giant moray and black-and-white snapper on the reef itself. The island's supply jetty is on this side, and the shallow notches under it at 2 to 5 m hold heavy schools of small fish, which makes a useful safety stop. The Numidia and Aida wrecks are at the opposite end of the island and are not part of this dive.

  • One route around one small island, not a separate reef
  • Thresher sharks reported over the plateau on dawn dives
  • The sheltered side, and the fallback dive when the tips are blown out
  • Schooling barracuda, dogtooth tuna and grey reef sharks off the ledge
  • Shallow notches under the island's supply jetty at 2 to 5 m for the safety stop

Please note before you go

  • The plateau falls away on both sides into water well past recreational depth; it is easy to drift off the edge without noticing
  • Current up to 4 knots at the site, and one guide warns the flow across this plateau often comes from the north, making a swim back hard
  • Negative entries and zodiac pickups in open ocean, with no shore to swim to
  • Oceanic whitetip sharks are regularly present in summer and approach divers, including on the safety stop
  • Fully offshore with no overnight boats permitted, so evacuation is hours away

Access & rules

Mandatory requirements

Certification required

AOW

Getting there

Liveaboard only. Boats cross overnight from Hurghada, Port Ghalib or Marsa Alam to an island 60 to 70 km off El Quseir, moor on fixed lines rather than anchoring, and run the dives from zodiacs. You de-kit in the water to get back aboard.

Operator

Access to the site runs through a local operator.

Restrictions

Safari boats need a sailing permit for the Brothers, normally included in the trip price. HEPCA's March 2019 reopening notice caps the site at 12 boats a day at Big Brother and 6 at Small Brother and forbids overnight stays, so a visit is a single day. Night diving is prohibited. Operators require Advanced Open Water or equivalent and around 50 logged dives.

Rules and permits

Declared marine protected area. Anchoring, dumping organic waste, feeding, fishing and spearfishing are prohibited; boats use fixed moorings. Permit and park charges are collected by the operator.

Season

May to November is the honest overlap: the offshore marine parks are generally given an April-to-November season, one operator narrows the Brothers to May to September, and a guide runs May to December with October and November as the pick. The thresher sharks this plateau is known for are reported more in the colder months, and oceanic whitetips through the summer.

Conditions

Visibility20 m
Currentmoderate
Surgenot sourced
WaterSalt water
Depth range5–40 m
Environmentreef
Coralnot sourced
Crowdsbusy

Open ocean with the island as the only shelter. Operators give visibility from 15 to 25 m at the low end and 19 to 30 m more usually; water runs roughly 21 to 24 degrees in winter and 26 to 30 in summer. Because this is the lee side it is the most reliably diveable part of the island, but swell wraps around the tip and spring brings the biggest seas.

On current: The south side is the lee. Operators grade the Brothers from 1 to 4 knots and describe the southern current as running south and usually lighter than the walls, which is why the south plateau is the fallback when it is blowing: above 3 knots the exposed north tip is cancelled and only this side is dived. That does not make it slack. One guide notes the current here often comes from the north, so finning back against it is hard work, and the standard drill above 2 knots is a negative entry, a tight group and an SMB on ascent. A first-hand trip report from this island logged one dive with no current at all and another running the opposite way, south to north.

Best months: May, Jun, Jul, Aug, Sep, Oct, Nov

Questions & answers

Is Big Brother South a separate dive site?

No. Big Brother is one small island, and the south plateau is one of the routes boats run around it. It shares the reef with our Big Brother, Big Brother East and Big Brother - Numidia entries, and a liveaboard with a day here will dive several of them in a row.

How deep is the south plateau at Big Brother?

Sources disagree, so plan shallow. One operator's table gives 15 to 30 m, a published trip report measured it starting at 20 m and sloping to 40 m, and two guides put the thresher cleaning station at 30 to 40 m. Off both edges the bottom falls away well past recreational limits, and the cap boats brief here is 40 m.

Can you see thresher sharks at Big Brother South?

This plateau is the reason people try. Guides describe it as a cleaning station where thresher sharks come in, best on an early morning dive, and one operator reports them mostly in early autumn and winter. Nothing is guaranteed; the same dive routinely turns up grey reef sharks and barracuda instead.

Is there current on the south side of Big Brother?

Usually less than on the walls and tips, which is why boats use this side as the first dive of the day and as the only option when the current is over three knots. It is still open ocean: one guide warns the flow across the plateau often comes from the north and swimming back against it is hard, and above two knots the drill is a negative entry with an SMB on ascent.

Can beginners dive Big Brother South?

No. Even as the gentlest route on the island it needs Advanced Open Water or equivalent and around 50 logged dives, which is what liveaboards on this itinerary ask for. You need to be comfortable with negative entries from a zodiac, a plateau edge that drops past recreational depth, and deploying an SMB in current.

What will I see on the south plateau?

Schooling great barracuda circling the ledge, dogtooth tuna, grey reef sharks and humphead wrasse in the blue, and coral hind, sea goldies, black-and-white snapper and giant moray on the reef. Threshers are the dawn animal and oceanic whitetips the summer one. The shallow notches by the island's supply jetty at 2 to 5 m hold dense schools of small fish.

How do you get to Big Brother?

Only on a liveaboard. The island lies 60 to 70 km off El Quseir and boats cross overnight from Hurghada, Port Ghalib or Marsa Alam. They moor on fixed lines instead of anchoring, and all diving runs from zodiacs, with divers taking their gear off in the water to climb back in.

Do you need a permit, and can you night dive?

The boat needs a sailing permit for the Brothers and the cost is normally in the trip price. Since HEPCA's March 2019 reopening notice the site is capped at 12 boats a day at Big Brother and no boat may stay overnight, so you get one day. Night diving is prohibited across the marine park.

Life recorded at Big Brother South

60 species within 1.5 km · OBIS
All 60 species recorded in this area
SpeciesHow oftenRecords
Fistularia commersoniioccasional14
Cephalopholis miniataoccasional14
Cheilinus undulatusoccasional13
Paracirrhites forsterioccasional11
Carcharhinus longimanusoccasional10
Macolor nigeroccasional9
Heniochus intermediusoccasional9
Balistoides viridescensoccasional8
Caranx melampygusoccasional8
Pseudanthias squamipinnisoccasional7
Arothron diadematusoccasional7
Caesio suevicaoccasional7
Scarus ferrugineusoccasional7
Chaetodon semilarvatusoccasional7
Pseudanthias taeniatusoccasional6
Genicanthus caudovittatusoccasional6
Zebrasoma desjardiniioccasional5
Amphiprion bicinctusoccasional5
Plectropomus marisrubrioccasional5
Priacanthus hamruroccasional5
Pycnochromis dimidiatusoccasional5
Sphyraena barracudaoccasional5
Coris aygularare4
Acanthurus gahhmrare4
Sargocentron spiniferumrare4
Gymnothorax javanicusrare4
Pygoplites diacanthusrare4
Pseudobalistes fuscusrare4
Dascyllus trimaculatusrare4
Thalassoma rueppelliirare3
Balistapus undulatusrare3
Cetoscarus bicolorrare3
Hexabranchus sanguineusrare3
Pterois milesrare3
Rhincodon typusrare3
Amblyglyphidodon indicusrare3
Naso elegansrare3
Monotaxis grandoculisrare3
Aluterus scriptusrare3
Myripristis murdjanrare2
Millepora dichotomarare2
Chaetodon melannotusrare2
Ostracion cubicumrare2
Plagiotremus rhinorhynchosrare2
Rhinecanthus assasirare2
Sargocentron caudimaculatumrare2
Scarus nigerrare2
Tridacna maximarare2
Variola loutirare2
Hipposcarus haridrare2
Acanthurus sohalrare2
Heniochus diphreutesrare2
Chaetodon fasciatusrare2
Epinephelus tauvinarare2
Lutjanus boharrare2
Aethaloperca rogaarare2
Papilloculiceps longicepsrare2
Kyphosus cinerascensrare2
Naucrates ductorrare1
Echeneis naucratesrare1

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