The dive
This catalogue entry bundles two separate caves under one name, and the ampersand in the middle is the giveaway that it came out of a list rather than off a dive slate. Both are on the western side of Ponza, in the white tuff cliffs between the beach of Chiaia di Luna and the Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa, with Punta di Capo Bianco between them; the catalogue pin sits about 380 m from the cape itself.
The Grotta della Maga Circe is the newer name for what Ponzesi call the Grotta del Segreto. A nineteenth-century traveller, Graeser, described it as an imposing cave with a high dark vault whose walls seem to show frightening figures by torchlight, and recorded that a monk seal pup had been taken there and sent to the Naples Aquarium, the first specimen the aquarium had managed to obtain in twenty-five years of trying. The local history blog Frammenti di Ponza, which reproduces his account, adds that a tunnel about 110 m long leads through to a small beach sheltered behind boulders inside the cave.
What is missing is any operator selling this as a dive. Odissey Diving, the SSI centre in the port of Ponza, publishes ten dive sites with depths and certification levels for each: Punta Madonna, Scoglio Rosso, Scoglio del Parroco, the two halves of the LST349 wreck, Scoglio Grosso, Scoglio della Botte, Le Formiche, Secca dei Mattoni and the Kastell Luanda. Neither of these caves is among them. Capo Bianco appears on the same centre's list of cales visited on the island boat tour, which it runs as a snorkelling and caving trip with masks, SUP boards and torches. The Ponza Viaggi diving page, which lists Odissey Diving as its contact, describes Le Formiche, Scoglio Rosso and the LST349 and does not mention either cave either.
So the honest description is: a pair of light-and-tuff caves worked from a dinghy with a mask, fins and a torch, on a coast with no land access, rather than a dive with a depth and a profile. The biological records around this pin are thin and mostly drifting animals - mauve stinger, by-the-wind sailor, barrel jellyfish, a sea butterfly - with a giant goby, a sea cucumber and an ornate wrasse on the rock. Treat that as a sign of how little anyone has surveyed here, not as a description of the caves. Ponza's diving season runs from 1 April to the beginning of November.
- A 110 m tunnel through to a small beach sheltered behind boulders inside the Grotta del Segreto
- White tuff cliffs between Chiaia di Luna and the Faraglioni di Lucia Rosa
- A cave with a nineteenth-century written record, including the capture of a monk seal pup
- Run from a dinghy with mask, fins and torches on the island cave tour
Please note before you go
- The Segreto / Maga Circe cave is entered through a tunnel about 110 m long, dark for most of its length
- Boat-only coast beneath high tuff cliffs, with no landing except the beach inside the cave
- No operator publishes a depth, a profile or a certification level for either cave